A Summer Travel Guide to Åre, Sweden's Famous Ski Town

Where to Hike & Swim

Like many ski resorts in the U.S., Åre transforms during the summertime. For a few short months, its ski runs become a web of hiking, trail running, and mountain biking paths that crisscross the mountainside under chairlifts and past lodges.

From the front doors of the Mountain House, we jumped on the trail to Totthummeln Peak, one of the Three Peaks of Åredalen, for a mellow morning hike with a big reward. To get to the official trailhead, we meandered for less than a mile through a section called Trollstigen, or the “Troll Path,” past wooden troll houses, painted mushrooms, and other colorful trailside delights.

Soon after, we reached a set of wooden gates marking the start of Åre's most accessible trail network. There’s a bench if you need a rest. From the Nalleklippan Viewpoint, we looked back toward the house and out at panoramic views across Åre village, Åresjön lake, and the surrounding mountains. In just over two hours, the loop covered about 5 miles with nearly 1,500 feet of vert. Fog above the treeline made it feel like a scene out of LOTR.

If you have more time, Klättermusen’s Carl Oldne, who lives in town, recommends a few different areas to explore. The first is the full-day, 14-mile Åreskutan Loop with dramatic mountain scenery, open landscapes, and “some of the best views the area has to offer.”

The next is Storulvån, a 45-minute drive from Åre, where a mountain station outfitted with rooms, a restaurant, and a provisions shop serves as a hub for “endless hiking options, from short day hikes to more challenging adventures.” For a three-day trek, hike the iconic Jämtland Triangle, which connects Storulvån, Sylarna, and Blåhammaren. You can sleep in a tent or book accommodations at mountain lodges along the way. The backcountry here feels endless, if you'd like to try a few nights of wild camping in the fjäll.

If you're seeking out fast thrills, Åre is also home to Åre Bikepark, the largest network of mountain biking trails in Scandinavia. It features a mix of downhill and cross-country trails for riders of all ages and abilities.

Whether you’re in the mountains for a day or three, make time to cool off with a refreshing swim in the beautiful natural swimming spot Ullån, located on Åre's slopes near Ulladal Lifts 1 and 2.

Where to Stay

The Peak Performance Mountain House (also called Tottbacken) opens its holiday residences—there's one for four guests and one for eight guests—to the public. It’s located right next to the T-bar ski lift called Tottliften. A few folks in our group also stayed nearby at the Granen Hotel, a charming alpine lodge with a large stone fireplace, a cozy bar and restaurant, and a small library with comfy armchairs. On one of my visits, an employee’s dog was perched on the couch. Hygge at its best.

Being a ski town, there is a range of accommodations. Directly on the mountain, Buustamons Fjällgård is a hike-in cabin for groups of 10 to 40 people. It also has a distillery and sauna. About 15 minutes from the village center, STF Södergården is a year-round hostel in one of those iconic red buildings. And Hotel Åregården is Åre’s oldest hotel, situated right in the village.

Where to Eat and Drink

Hungry upon arrival, we ate sandwiches and coffee on the patio of Åre Bageri, right off the main highway running through town. From there, most other cafés, bars, and restaurants are within walking distance in the center of town. After our morning hike, we ordered huge savory galettes—mine had prosciutto—at Crêperie & Logi, housed in the old fire station.

Oldne recommends Åre Kafferosteri for specialty coffee, the classic bistro Werséns for mingling with locals, and Vinbaren for the best wine. And just outside of town in Undersåker, he says Fäviken Lanthandel is a must-visit for homemade pastries and locally-produced ingredients, cheeses, charcuterie, and other Jämtland delicacies.

For our second dinner, we ate a four-course meal at the Granen Hotel restaurant. Everything on the menu was fish-forward and featured locally foraged herbs. Dessert was a rhubarb tart.

After dinner, some of us continued on to Broken, a pub that feels strikingly familiar to bars in American ski towns. No coincidence there. They serve beer and cocktails, and if you're missing home, you can order fries, milkshakes, and something called a Mega Burger. Their merch makes for a good, unexpected Jämtland souvenir.

When to Visit Åre

Situated in the Scandinavian Mountains at roughly the same latitude as parts of central Alaska, Åre has a subarctic climate. Winters are long and snowy, and daylight is extremely limited in December and January. Locals yearn for the warmer temperatures and midnight sun of summer.

Snow lasts through May, and June can still bring rain and cool temperatures. When I was there in mid-June, one day was sunny in the mid-60s, and the next brought an afternoon downpour—after our hike, luckily. July and early August are generally warmer, with temperatures up in the 70s. The sun sets as late as 11:15 PM around the summer solstice, but twilight lasts until the sun rises again. The round-the-clock daylight can be disorienting!

What to Pack

Sleeping Mask: Given the endless daylight, you’ll want something to shield the sun from your eyes, especially if your room doesn’t have blackout shades. This one from Matador is comfortable, soft, packable, and has a pocket so you don't lose your earplugs in transit.

Light Hikers: My Norda 003s were plenty sufficient for hiking the trails around Åre. Any pair of trail running shoes will do—unless you’re doing the multi-day trek and have room in your suitcase for bigger boots.

Tick Repellent: Ticks carrying Lyme disease and other viruses are known to linger here in springtime. Protect yourself with some juice, whether you bring it with you or buy it in town.

Long Hiking Pants: I like hiking in shorts—Peak Performance cargo shorts are my favorite—but given the tick population, I’d recommend wearing long pants as an additional safeguard against bites. Here are Field Mag's picks for the best women's hiking pants.

Rain Jacket: The weather can change in an instant out here. You won’t regret packing a waterproof shell with you. There's a Peak Performance store in the village center if you forget.