A Buyer's Guide to Shopping for Used Outdoor Gear: What to Look for and Why

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  • Emme Hayes
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  • Emme Hayes

A Buyer's Guide to Shopping for Used Outdoor Gear: What to Look for and Why

How to find outdoor gear that still has plenty of life left in it, according to an expert in gear and thrifting


Published: 10-15-2025

About the author

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Emme Hayes is the founder of Articles in Common, a community driven marketplace using outdoor resale to fund climate action.

The outdoor industry has built a culture around achievement. Fastest ascents, fastest descents, new personal records—many of us chase these wins like they’re the whole point. But somewhere along the way, we forgot what brought us outside in the first place. Belonging outside isn’t just about bagging summits, it’s about enjoyment, escape, and experience, and that means protecting each mountain like it’s the last one standing.

Safeguarding those natural places starts with how we gear up, and buying gear that's used can come with an outsized impact.

Buying used isn’t just thrifty, it’s re-structural. Every purchase we redirect from new to used, from replace to repair, is a vote against overproduction and for a circular outdoor economy. It's simple: when a piece of gear stays in use for longer, that means fewer items need to be made to take its place. The irony is that the outdoor industry has gotten so good at marketing “technical innovation” that we’ve normalized replacing gear every few seasons. Real innovation would be gear designed for decade-long use and user-serviceable repairs.

But outdoor pursuits put gear through the wringer. So how do you spot good used gear that performs, lasts, and supports that circular economy? Field Mag has written extensively about outdoor brands with recycle, re-use, and repair programs, as well as tips for thrifting vintage outdoor gear. And me personally, I evaluate thousands of pieces of used outdoor gear every week for resale, deciding what’s ready for another season and what’s ready for retirement.

Below, I outline what I look for when evaluating good used gear, how to decide what’s worth keeping, and why it matters.


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A Guide to Evaluating & Buying Used Outdoor Gear

Jackets and Shells

Shell fabrics are the most resource-intensive outdoor materials to produce, which makes their lifespan critical. When evaluating a shell or insulated jacket, I’m looking for material integrity and functional longevity, not just visual condition.

  • Face fabric and laminate: Run your fingers along the inner laminate. If it’s tacky, flaky, or has a cloudy texture, the waterproof membrane is breaking down (common with older polyurethane coatings). Gore-Tex, eVent, and similar laminates fail from the inside first, not the outside.
  • DWR and coating: Drip water on the surface. If it beads, the DWR still works. If it wets out immediately, the coating has worn off. It’s fixable, but only if the laminate below is still healthy.
  • Seams and taping: Look for peeling or bubbling along seam tape. Once tape lifts, it rarely re-bonds well, even with iron-on repair.
  • Zippers: Pay close attention to molded zippers like YKK Vislon versus coil zippers. Coil zippers are lighter but prone to wave distortion when stressed. Always zip them under light tension to test alignment.
  • Elastic and cuffs: Check for loss of tension. Overstretched cuffs and hood elastics indicate fabric fatigue.
  • Smell and feel: A plasticky or sour odor often signals delamination or mildew, two things that can’t be repaired.

What passes: A jacket that feels crisp but flexible, seams that are smooth and intact, and a waterproof layer that’s even and quiet when moved.

What fails: Sticky inner coatings, powdery seams, or any cracking at high-stress points like the underarms and hood base.

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Backpacks

Picking the right backpack is key. A quality pack can serve 15+ years if the frame holds, making frame inspection the most important skill for used buyers. For packs, design and structure tell you everything about how they’ve aged. I’m assessing frame integrity, fabric fatigue, and hardware compatibility.

  • Frame and suspension: Press the frame sheets or rods. They should rebound without creaking. Aluminum stays should still have a smooth bend, not flat spots.
  • Foam panels: Shoulder straps and hip belts should compress evenly. Foam that feels crunchy, rigid, or uneven is oxidized and near failure.
  • Fabrics: Look inside for warped lines that can be a sign of delamination. If the coating flakes, the pack isn’t going to last.
  • Webbing and stitching: UV exposure makes nylon webbing glossy or brittle. Pull on critical seams like where the shoulder strap meets the pack body. You’ll feel it if threads are giving.
  • Hardware: Buckles and some magnetic clasps can be replaced, but stress-whitened plastic (look to see if it's turning grayish) will snap under tension.
  • Design iterations: I prioritize models that have persisted through several generations like Osprey's Aether, Deuter's Aircontact, and the Mystery Ranch Glacier, because those brands maintain parts compatibility and service support.

What passes: Minor cosmetic wear with intact structure, balanced compression foam, and accessible replacement parts.

What fails: Frame cracks, fabric delamination, or broken anchor stitching.

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Tents

Tent coatings fail predictably, which means you can learn to spot the difference between a $400 tent with five years left and one that’s done. For tents, I’m testing coating integrity, pole elasticity, and structural tension.

  • Fly and floor: Unfold both completely. If they feel sticky or have a faint chemical smell, the polyurethane coating is hydrolyzing and the tent is beyond saving.
  • Fabric texture: Silnylon should feel supple, not waxy or stiff. Ripstop patterns should remain visible. If they’re cloudy, the coating could be deteriorating.
  • Poles: Look for stress lines near joints or ferrules (the connecting sleeves between pole sections). Dents or dings are common in ultralight poles but are easy to replace.
  • Zippers: Run each one under light tension. If they separate easily, the coil teeth are bent or stretched. Zipper replacements usually cost more than replacing the tent, so most people don’t end up replacing zippers.
  • Elastic cords: Note the overall elasticity as older cords lose rebound and are not easily replaceable.
  • Seams: Press seam tape with your thumb. If it lifts, it’s nearing the end of its life. Look for warping along the seam line or broken stitching.

What passes: A tent that pitches taut, smells neutral, and has coatings that feel dry but flexible.

What fails: Sticky floors, flaking, brittle or distorted mesh, or zippers that snag.

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Stoves & Cookware

Here I’m inspecting fuel system integrity and stability, not just whether or not it lights up. Threads and seals: Check for stripped threads where the canister attaches and inspect O-rings for dryness or cracks.

  • Valves: Turn them slowly. They should glide smoothly without squeaks or jerks. Any stiffness means residue buildup or seal corrosion.
  • Burner head: The flame pattern tells all. It should be even and blue. A yellow or uneven flame suggests clogging or misalignment.
  • Body condition: Surface rust on steel is fine. Pitted corrosion around welds is not. On titanium stoves, look for rainbow discoloration that could mean overheating.
  • Pump assemblies (liquid fuel): The plunger should move with resistance, not scrape. If it feels loose or hisses, the cup seal has dried out.
  • Nonstick cookware: Avoid it entirely. PFAS coatings degrade and contaminate. Bare titanium, stainless, or hard anodized aluminum are the sustainable options.

What passes: A stove with steady flame, smooth valves, and even wear on burner ports.

What fails: Leaking seals, rusty or warped burner heads, or inconsistent fuel pressure.

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Why Buying Used Matters

The secondhand market only works if buyers know what they’re looking at. When people get burned on used gear and it fails immediately, they go back to buying new. Learning to evaluate used gear properly isn’t just about your own purchase, it’s about keeping the circular economy credible.

If you want gear that lasts, whether used or new, look for models that have persisted through multiple iterations. Osprey's Aether pack, Patagonia's Nano Puff jacket, and MSR WhisperLite stove are all examples. Brands keep supporting these designs with parts and service because they’ve proven themselves. That longevity is your best insurance.

When something finally does fail, keep it. A blown-out tent fly becomes stuff sack material. Dead pack webbing becomes future repair material. You’re not building a gear closet, you’re building a repair ecosystem and, if you want to get your fellow adventurers involved, a gear repair community that you can give back to.

And when you do buy new, opt for quality. Buying quality gear is about much more than having the latest and greatest. When we invest in gear that’s made to be repaired instead of replaced, we’re advocating for a different kind of outdoor economy. Gear that's well-made holds value longer, performs longer, and resells for more. That’s how we build a system that rewards durability instead of disposability, one that values summits protected over summits bagged. Every choice to buy used, to repair instead of replace, to demand better from brands contributes to the effort to protect the places we recreate in. It’s how we connect culture to conservation, people to purpose, and gear to protecting the wild.

Now that you know what to look for, check out these 10 spots where you can find good-quality secondhand outdoor gear and learn more about materials like deadstock fabrics.