Photographer:Graham Hiemstra, David Ryder
Camera:Contax T2, Yashica T4
Film:Kodak Portra 400, T-Max 400

Japanuary 2018: The Land of Eternal Powder

A visual recap of our 10-day effort to ski the best snow on earth in Central Hokkaido, Japan

*photography by Graham Hiemstra and David Ryder

After what felt like a lifetime of waiting, I was just a week away from fulfilling my dream of snowboarding in Japan. But the forecast looked grim. A centimeter here, a few more there. It didn’t make sense. Hokkaido is where the snow is—it’s where it always is, every January. They call it Japanuary for a reason. After some reassuring words from participants of years past, I ignored the forecasts, packed my bags, fired off some last minute emails before setting my OOO message live, and tried to mentally prepare for the 27 hours of travel it would take to get me from New York City to Sapporo.

Fast forward and I’m driving north from Sapporo to Central Hokkaido in a van with my cousin—award winning photojournalist and TF contributor David Ryder—and two strangers, Chas from Whistler and Chandler from Mammoth, the later being our guide via Stealth Backcountry Tours.

We had chosen to skip Niseko, the most well known ski resort town in Hokkaido, after hearing countless stories that the Aussie population has begun to outnumber the Japanese and that the vibe scales have shifted heavily towards a more Western experience. Sure, we had come for the snow, but it’s Japan after all, and we weren’t interested in missing out on the cultural aspect too. Either way, it was nuking out, and all signs pointed to the endless epic powder to come.

Over the next six days the four of us, plus our local Japanese guide and Gentem style master Kazumasa Yamada, aka Junior, did little more than lap untouched waist-deep snow, eat ramen and sushi and ice cream, visit 7-Eleven, drink beers from vending machines, soak in onsens, and laugh to the point of crying from stupid inside jokes and life as a gaijin in Japan in general.

Ski untouched waist-deep snow, eat ramen, sushi, and ice cream, visit 7-Eleven, drink beer from vending machines, soak in onsen, repeat

I had all the intentions in the world of creating a wealth of content from the trip. But day one, as the beautiful mindfuck that is Japan set in, I instead decided to embrace the slow pace of life as a snowsurfer and let my overzealous work dreams and pent up stresses from city life fade away. Forecasts be damned, it snowed a foot plus every day. And I wasn't going to let that go to waste.

Moral of the story: the urge to document life’s most precious and anticipated moments is something we all feel. But sometimes it’s best to ignore such feelings of obligation and free yourself to experience the beautiful ephemerality of it all.

Even still David and I together managed to burn five rolls of film with our respective 35mm point-and-shoots. What you see above is a series of snapshots—a window into Japanuary 2018 for our crew, made up of both earnest efforts to capture sick turns and half-assed attempts at answering that little voice in the back of my head screaming “don’t forget the photo essay!” Either way, I hope you dig it.

dreaming of visiting Hokkaido next year? Check out our First-Timer's Guide to Japanuary

huge thank you to Mizake and Konoko at Goryo Guesthouse and Cafe for being such kind, generous hosts. And to Junior, who taught me what it truly means to snowsurf

The Field's benevolent overlord, formerly of the PNW and now residing in New York City. He apologizes in advance for his many mispellings.
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