Michinoku Coastal Trail Winter Hiking Guide: Epic Views & No Crowds

Michinoku Coastal Trail Quick Stats
Total Distance: 1,025km / 637 Miles
Total Elevation Gain: 38,640 meters / 126,771 feet
Average competition time: 50 to 60 days
Recommended Direction in Winter: North to South (Aomori to Fukushima)

The Michinoku Coastal Trail is something every aspiring hiker visiting Japan should experience at least once. Stretching more than 1,000 kilometers (over 600 miles) along Japan’s northeastern Pacific coast, the MCT is one of the nation’s newest long-distance hiking routes, connecting remote fishing towns, beautiful coastline, and ancient forests.

While the MCT is typically hiked in spring or fall, when it is showcasing seasonal colors at their best, I chose to explore the trail in winter. Having spent time hiking across many of Japan’s alpine regions, I found the MCT offers something refreshingly different. In the colder months, the coastal light, salty breeze, fresh seafood, and slower pace gave it a unique rhythm all its own.

Keep reading to see the full breakdown of my time on the MCT, including many details for those thinking of doing something a little different during Japan’s winter months. And if you're a warm weather-only hiker, check out Field Mag's guide to hiking the Michinoku Coastal Trial in summer.

Michinoku Coastal Trail History and Overview

Inspired by long trails in the U.S. like the Pacific Crest Trail, the Ministry of the Environment established the MCT in 2019. Roughly one-fourth the length of the PCT, the trail winds through four different prefectures in northern Japan’s Tohoku region, an area known for its wild nature, beautifully carved coastlines, and for being far removed from the bustling Tokyo.

More than just a long trail, the MCT was created in the aftermath of the 2011 Great East Earthquake and Tsunami, connecting towns that were once devastated by the natural disaster. The trail was developed as part of a broader recovery effort – not only to bring visitors back to the region but also to celebrate local resilience and revitalization.

English and Japanese speakers will find plenty of resources for how to hike the trail online (both crowdsourced from community members that have hiked the trail and members of the Michinoku Trail Club) and in person at the many information centers spread along the trail. While basic Japanese can be helpful for interactions with locals, you won’t need to be fluent to navigate the trail.

Why You Should Hike the Michinoku Coastal Trail in Winter

Japan has plenty of trails that can be hiked in winter. But these are usually higher elevation hikes that require more technical equipment and know-how, especially if exploring the Japanese Alps hut system. The MCT, on the other hand, is an excellent and accessible option during any season. I chose to make the trek in winter for a few different reasons.

By winter, many of the forested portions of the MCT have lost their leaf cover. Less leaves on the trees means more expansive views, plus paths that feel more open and full of light. The one downside is that with no leaves, you get less protection from the brisk coastal winds—but this is easily mitigated by a lightweight shell jacket.

The MCT has an abundance of Japanese silver grass which dries out in the colder months and contrasts beautifully with the soft light of the ocean and sky. The sea becomes incredibly clear in the winter without the haze and humidity from the heat and is truly something to behold.

Another plus of hiking in the winter is that you get seafood at its freshest. I walked past oyster and abalone farmers only to have their harvest on my plate later that day. The winter months follow the traditional harvest season for oysters in the region since they thrive in the lower sea temperatures. One winter-only local specialty I especially enjoyed at a small mom-and-pop bar in Sanriku, a village about halfway along the MCT, was hayatori wakame, a tender, early-season kelp harvested in winter. Certain sushi dishes also taste better in the winter months generally since colder waters mean fattier fish.

Walking along the MCT during the winter also offers chances to experience some of the many winter-only festivals that take place in the region. Case in point, one evening I was visited by the namahage, locals dressed like ogres during the new year whose mission is to act like a tangible bogeyman.

One more bonus: Ticks and leeches can be quite the nuisance in the summer months and hiking in the winter means you can avoid these.

Michinoku Coastal Trail Hiking Conditions in Winter

The MCT is a trail that gives hikers the ability to tailor their hiking experience. It can be thru-hiked or experienced in sections, like I did. The different sections can be strenuous depending on where you are hiking, but on average you won’t find yourself bagging peaks every day.

Due to the low amount of snow on the coast, you normally don’t need to worry about trails being snowed out. (Huge news for anyone who has considered hiking a 14er in the U.S. in winter months.) Still, be careful of lingering ice on portions of trails that do not get much sunlight.

Another consideration for winter is that the sun sets earlier, especially in the valleys or mountains where light may be blocked, with sunset around 4:00 PM in early December. Make sure to plan your days accordingly so you’re not stuck in the middle of the trail at nightfall.

The Pacific side of the Tohoku coast has a surprisingly mild winter with little snow compared to the inland areas. Winter temperatures along the middle portion of the trail where I hiked can range between 30 and 50 Fahrenheit on average, with the drier conditions leading to crisp blue skies.

Where to Stay Along the Michinoku Coastal Trail

You can splurge and stay in some incredible ryokans (Japanese style inns), rough it out in a tent during your hike, or do a little bit of both. Either way, even with the 300+ options of accommodation options to stay at, it is important to plan ahead in the winter to ensure you have a place each night.

If hiking in the winter, I would recommend opting for staying at the ryokans that are available along the trail. There are plenty of campgrounds to pitch a tent, even in the winter, but some have seasonal restroom facilities. While unofficial camping (aka ‘stealth camping’) isn’t clearly regulated in all areas, it’s occasionally used by hikers when no other options are available. Be discreet and respectful if you go this route.

Working with certain tour groups in the area can be a huge bonus as they can do all the booking for any accommodation for you and even ferry your luggage around if you are planning on bringing more than a backpack. I walked with experts from both Sanriku Tours and In Out Bound Tohoku that made the section hikes a breeze.

Below are a few of the locations I stayed around the central portion of the trial.

• Otobe-so: A small hikers retreat and official MCT partner accommodation nestled in a small village in the mountains. The ryokan is very close to the Todogasaki coastline, which is the eastern most point on the Japanese main island of Honshu. It has only Japanese style futon rooms and must be booked by email or phone. If you’re looking for a tent spot, the Aneyoshi Campgrounds nearby have working toilet facilities all year round.
• The Park Hotel Jodogahama: A higher end hotel option if you need a bit more R&R. A stone throws away from Jodogahama, a beautiful white pebble beach whose name translates to “paradise beach.” Has both Western and Japanese style rooms and can be booked with most booking websites.
• Ofunato Hot Spring: Another hotel option, this one includes hot springs with a spectacular view of the bay. There’s nothing quite like sitting out in an onsen with the crisp winter air. This hotel has many bilingual resources with most notices being in both English and Japanese. The hotel is close to the Goishihama Coast as well, a stunning portion of the MCT and part of the Sanriku Fukko National Park. Has both Western and Japanese style rooms and can be booked with most booking websites.

What to Bring on the Michinoku Coastal Trail

Depending on if you are thru-hiking or section hiking, your loadout will be radically different. The MCT passes through a wide variety of topographies including mountainous areas, seaside cliffs, sandy beaches, paved roads, and remote towns so you’ll want to be prepared depending on the season. Good news is, you're passing through Tokyo or other large cities prior to your hike, there are a good number of really exciting Japanese outdoor brands to get kitted out with beforehand. That said, keeping things light never hurts if you are planning on putting in a lot of miles. Below, what I brought with me this January.

Outer layer(s): I hike warm so I brought a simple Montbell U.L. wind jacket to block the coastal winds as my outer layer. I also brought a Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer down jacket to throw on when I stopped for a break.

Midlayer: Since I was going light with my outer layer, I chose an ultralight fleece from Farpointe to wear underneath. It kept me warm and helped me regulate my temperature between the climbing and descending sections of the trail.

Baselayer: I went with a Merino short sleeve from Yamatomichi, a local Japanese brand, as my base layer. It didn’t overheat me but kept my midlayer from getting soaked in sweat when climbing certain sections. While I did not need it, you may want to consider a bottom baselayer if you’re planning on being out after dark as it gets considerably colder. I usually grab a pair of Icebreaker merino leggings that I have.

Pants: No need to get too technical here—the MCT isn’t as tough as a 14er—but you still want to wear something that helps regulate heat as you walk but keeps you warm enough when standing still. I went with some Merino pants from Yamatomichi, which also felt nice enough to wear around the towns along the trail.

Backpack: It is hard to go wrong with a light backpack if you are section hiking the MCT. I opted for a 32L ultralight pack from another local Japanese brand, Atlier Blue Bottle. It was plenty of room for bringing what I needed and all three of my cameras. If you are thru-hiking the trail consider something larger in the 40L to 60L range.

Small side bag: Due to how many towns you’ll pass through on the trial, it’s a good idea to have some of your belongings immediately available. I sported a small sacoche bag from Ridge Mountain Gear to keep my wallet, phone, film camera, and extras in and easily accessible.

Footwear: This varies greatly on how you hike. Due to the wide variety of terrain you’ll encounter, you will want something that gives you versatility. You will see plenty of people wearing high-cut or mid-cut boots while hiking on the MCT, but I went with the Hoka Speedgoat 5 trail runners.

Other considerations: Due to how much I relied on accommodations, I made sure to bring a battery that would keep my phone topped up while out and about. I also brought light micro-spikes in case I ran into any ice on the trails and a headlamp in case I found myself outside after dark. Finally, while digital payments are becoming increasingly common in Japan, cash is still king in the less populated areas, so make sure to bring some bills and coins with you.

Final Thoughts on the Michinoku Coastal Trail

No matter how or when you hike the MCT, it will be an immersive experience. Knowing Japanese can help create more authentic interactions with the locals, but it’s completely possible to hike the whole route without Japanese. Thanks to the guides I worked with I was able to have an unforgettable time while on the MCT and I was able to learn more not only about the recovery efforts that took place after the 2011 disaster, but also about the history of various portions of the routes.