Tour du Mont Blanc: A First Hand Guide to Europe’s Most Iconic Hut Hike

Tour du Mont Blanc Overview

Total distance: About 170km
Total elevation gain: About 10,000 m
Estimated time for completion: 7-11 days
Suggested starting point: Les Houches, France

The famous Tour du Mont Blanc trek covers about 170 km of trail through picturesque towns and mountain passes around the French, Italian, and Swiss alps. It is a circular route that begins and ends in the quaint French town of Les Houches. However, given it is a circular hike, you can start at any entry point in the trek and complete the loop from there or, if you have time constraints, you can choose to do just one section.

The TMB is considered to be a moderate to challenging trek depending on your hiking experience and ability with approximately 10,000 meters of ascent and descent across its entirety. Most hikers can complete the trek in between 7 to 11 days. We opted to complete it in 10 days in order to have time to take in the gorgeous views and towns. You can also do this as part of a guided tour. I loved planning and completing it with just my partner, but if you’d prefer a guide to organize everything and take you right the way round, that's totally an option. We also met lots of people who used companies like Runcation to trail run the TMB route. Companies like this will handle all logistics, booking, and luggage transport so you can just focus on the trail.

The trail features both rugged mountain sections that pass by alpine huts and valleys along with descents into larger towns, like Les Chapieux and Courmayeur, where you can find plenty of restaurants and accommodations. This combination of rural and urban sections is what makes the TMB so special. Unlike other hut-to-hut hikes that are more remote, the TMB provides an opportunity to meet both hikers from around the world as well as locals, enjoy regional cuisine, and take in the sites, be it local churches or iconic peaks.

Of course, if you’re looking for one to two weeks of pure solitude in remote mountains, the TMB might not be for you. Something like the Alta Via 1 in the Dolomites or even hut-to-hut hiking in the Pyrenees might be more your speed.

Where to Stay on the TMB

There are plenty of accommodation options along the Tour du Mont Blanc, ranging from designated camping areas, mountain refuges, hostels, and hotels. Before you set off, make sure you’ve decided how much of each you’d like to do. There’s no wrong breakdown, but know that the more nights you stay in accommodations, the more expensive your trip will be.

If you do plan to camp, be sure to research sites ahead of time. Due to regulations on wild camping, you cannot just pitch a tent anywhere you’d like along the trail. You will need to use designated campsites, some of which will need to be booked in advance. There are some that allow for spontaneous arrivals, but they’re few and far between. Annoyingly, the official TMB website only highlights huts along the route. However, some of the huts presented on the main site do also allow for adjacent camping options available—so the website is still worth checking out even if you want to spend most of your trip camping.

One tip: if you’re trying to find places to camp online, narrow your search to specific sections of the trail. Doing this more targeted search, rather than just typing “Best Camp Sites Tour Mont Blanc” into Google, will prove fruitful. With this approach, I found plenty of beautiful and lovely places to camp around areas of the trail. Unfortunately, they’re often not directly on the trail or in main towns. You’ll have to hike extra miles or use public transportation to get to them.

There are ways to make the non-camping options more economical. For example, at most mountain huts, you can also choose whether you want to splurge on a private room or bunk in a cheaper dorm room. If you go with the latter, just make sure to double check how many beds are in each room, as it can be a pretty wide range from four to more than 20. After a long day of hiking, you don’t want to be surprised by your number of bunk mates.

If you opt for huts, then no matter where you stay, you can expect hearty home cooking and, in most cases, a warm shower. (Don’t get too excited, you will often have to pay for them in two to four minute increments.) Many of the huts you will stay in along the way will include dinner and breakfast as part of the rate, plus the option to add a packed lunch. You will also find that the majority of meals are communal, so you will end up exchanging wonderful stories with other hikers over dinner. Having completed the trek by staying in a combination of mountain huts, B&Bs, and a couple of hotels in larger towns throughout, I can firmly say that was one of the best decisions we made in planning our trip. You'll meet people of all ages from all across the globe, and not having to carry food and shelter is such a treat.

If you do decide to stay in huts along the entirety of the TMB, you should aim to start booking your TMB itinerary 8-10 months before you hit the trail. This may sound overly cautious, but trust me–rooms fill up fast, especially if you have firm dates. We started planning for our trip this July last October and still struggled to secure all the accommodation we needed. For example, we couldn’t snag any accommodation in the town of Les Chapieux, which is what pushed us into taking the Col des Fours variant on the trail (more on this below.) You can use the main Tour du Mont Blanc site to guide you and see what options you have. Most of the refuges available are on this site, but not all, so be mindful of this. Many of the huts can be booked straight through here, whereas others allow you to book directly through their own website. (As a reminder, this site doesn’t show you camping options unless they are attached to an accommodation listed on the site.)

When To Hike the TMB

The typical season for hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc is between late June and early September, when most of the huts are open. We opted for the first two weeks of July to allow a bit of extra time for any snow on the trail to melt. We still saw a bit of snow along the way, but there wasn’t enough to cause any complications on the trail. The weather on our trip was near perfect–cool mornings and sunny afternoons. And other than some pretty poor weather on our final day, we ran into little to no rain and thunderstorms. But be warned, this is not always the case, so be prepared with layers and rain gear.

Recommended Trail Stages

The typical start point for the Tour du Mont Blanc is in Les Houches, just a short train journey from Chamonix. Most hikers will then complete the route going anti-clockwise (for the best views) passing through France, Italy, Switzerland, and then back to France to finish. This route will take you over the typical mountain passes on the TMB including Col de la Seigne between France and Italy and down into larger towns including Les Chapieux, Courmayeur, and Champex.

While the majority of hikers start in Les Houches, you don’t have to. We met plenty of hikers who started in Courmayeur or Les Chapieux. No matter where you start, there are also a handful of extra trail variants, including the Col des Fours, Fenetre d’Arpette, and Col du Tricot which you can choose to do. These bonus climbs are a great option if you are struggling to find accommodation on one section of the route or are looking for a quieter alternative on a section. They typically offer more dramatic scenery and are more challenging trails. Be sure to research the difficulty of these trail variants and be honest with yourself on your own hiking abilities–there's a reason not everyone attempts them.

Below is our 10-day itinerary which includes a variant on day three where, instead of following the traditional route from Croix du Bonhomme into the town of Les Chapieux, we opted to stay in the mountains and complete the variant across the Col des Fours. Additionally, on day 10, we opted to take the Planpraz cable car down into Chamonix instead of continuing into Les Houches due to bad weather conditions. It's also a great option for those trying to save their knees on the final kilometers of the TMB!

Day 1: Les Houches to La Ferme à Piron (Les Contamines) - 17.5km, 1000m elevation gain

Day 2: La Ferme à Piron (Les Contamines) to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme - 13.5km, 1350m elevation gain

Day 3: Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme to Rifugio Elisabetta (Via the Col de Fours variant) - 15km, 960m elevation gain

Day 4: Rifugio Elisabetta to Hotel Berthod (Courmayeur) - 16.5km, 530m elevation gain

Day 5: Hotel Berthod (Courmayeur) to Rifugio Alpino Walter Bonatti - 12km, 1090 m elevation gain

Day 6: Rifugio Alpino Walter Bonatti to Gîte de la Fouly (La Fouly) - 20.5km, 970m elevation gain

Day 7: Gîte de la Fouly (La Fouly) to Chalet La Grange (Champex) - 17km, 550m elevation gain

Day 8: Chalet La Grange (Champex) to Auberge la Grande Ourse à Trient (Trient) - 16 km, 890m elevation gain

Day 9: Auberge la Grande Ourse à Trient (Trient) to l’Auberge de la Boerne (Tré-le-Champ) - 14 km, 1150m elevation gain

Day 10: l’Auberge de la Boërne (Tré-le-Champ) to Chamonix (via Planpraz cablecar, hikers would typically continue hiking into Les Houches) - 12.5km, 1,140m elevation gain

TMB Hut-to-Hut Highlights

Food: Given that the Tour du Mont Blanc passes through France, Italy, and Switzerland, you’ll have an opportunity to try a whole range of foods along the way. Think hefty servings of Tartiflette (a dish of baked potatoes, bacon, onions, and cheese) in France, heaping bowls of pasta in Italy, and the most amazing Rösti (grated and fried potatoes topped with cheese, meat, and eggs) you’ve ever had in Switzerland.

Col de Fours: This specific mountain pass was a huge highlight on the trail for us, offering stunning views and a more tranquil hiking experience than what we found along the classic route. It is quite physically demanding, so be sure to check weather conditions before committing to it.

UTMB: The famous UTMB (Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc) which usually takes place at the end of August or early September, shares the same route as the Tour du Mont Blanc. You will come across runners training for the event in the weeks leading up to it, and it's quite incredible to see the speed in which these athletes move through the trail, leaving you in their dust. For a quieter atmosphere, it's best to avoid hiking during the UTMB, but if you wish to see it in action, plan accordingly.

The “Ladder Section”: This will either be a nightmare or a highlight depending on the person you are. On the final sections of the TMB when you are above the Chamonix valley, you will come across a series of steep ladders—like a mini via ferrata. I personally found it incredibly exciting to go up and over them, and it was a welcome break from the long uphill climbs of previous days. However, there is a longer alternative route around the ladders if you prefer to avoid the exposure.

Packing List

Backpack: Selecting the right backpack depends mainly on whether you choose to stay in huts or camp. We opted to stay in huts for the entirety of the TMB, so we brought 30-50 liter day packs. It was just enough to carry the essentials and all my camera gear. I personally prefer a little more structure in my bag so I love the options from the Salewa 30+3 collection whereas my partner loves a lighter pack like Mountain Laurel Designs’ ultralight 48L.

Sleeping Bag liner: Almost all the huts you stay in will require a sleeping bag liner, because they don’t wash the bedding between uses. Use your trip as the chance to invest in one that is light and packs down small, like the Milet Baikal Liner.

Rain gear: You never know what the weather will do, so make sure you pack a rain jacket!

Hiking poles: An absolute must—the TMB has some really challenging downhill sections and having poles can really save the day. I trekked with collapsible poles like the Black Diamond Trail Back Trekking Poles. They're super handy and pack away easily.

Pants: A proper pair of hiking pants is not required, but great for cooler days and to keep your legs out of the sun on really sunny days. My all time favorite is Outdoor Voices’ RecTrek Pants as they are super comfy and work well with hip belts on packs.

T-shirts: I love Patagonia’s Capilene shirts. They are light, breathable, and dry relatively quickly.

Shorts: You can’t go wrong with a pair of Patagonia Baggies.

Fleece: To stay warm on chilly mornings and at night. For the lightest, warmest option, search out Polartec Alpha fleece. Portland, OR-based Senchi and Gnuhr both make great, funky options.

Hiking Boots or Trailrunners: I used to hike in boots, but switched to trail running sneakers a few years ago and never looked back. They’re supportive enough and way lighter. My favorite pair at the moment are the La Sportiva Bishudo IIIs. Whatever shoe you choose, make sure you try them out on a hike ahead of time.

Sandals or Slippers: Many huts will not allow you to wear hiking boots or trail runners inside. (Going barefoot is also not an option.) A cheap pair of flip flops will work just fine but if you want to feel more comfortable and supported while walking around, I recommend the Teva Hurricane XLT2 sandals. A great pair of hiking sandals will be good for walking around town too.

Sunglasses: The sun is incredibly strong on the TMB, so be prepared. Bring your favorite protective pair, I love Oakley’s Eye Jackets as they will stay in place all day long.

Hat: You definitely need a hat or cap to keep the sun out of your face. The Outdoor Research Swift Cap is comfortable and dries quickly, making it super easy to wash when it inevitably gets so sweaty you don’t want to put it back on.

Refillable Water bottle: Staying hydrated is super important so bringing a lightweight option like a Nalgene is essential, especially when hiking in the heat and at elevation. There are plenty of points along the trail to fill up on water, but be sure to read signs to make sure it's from a potable tap.(Some UL hikers swear by Smartwater, but I don’t mind the extra grams of the sturdier Nalgene.)

Map and compass: A physical map and compass work great, but we opted for using the OsmAnd navigation app with GPX files of the trail.

Soap: Many of the huts do not have soap in the bathrooms. You’ll be grateful you brought your own (and other people will be thankful too, if you have enough to share!). Biodegradable soap is best. Dr. Bronner’s does a great multi-purpose soap, in mini versions too, so you can just toss one in your pack.

First aid kit: Just in case.

Sunscreen and toiletries: Everything you would usually bring, but remember you can stock up in towns along the way, so don’t go overboard at the start. Mini versions of everything!

Ear Plugs: So you can get some sleep! Anything from your local pharmacy will work great but like your shoes, make sure you test in advance. Not all earplugs are created equal.

Stuff sacks: Many of the huts will require you to store your main pack in a storage room overnight (to prevent bed bugs). We used the Sea to Summit stuff sacks to organize our bags in such a way that we could pull out our night essentials and keep them by our beds. It was easy to get everything back in the next morning.

Camera: To record the views and memories! I brought my Yashica T4 and my Nikon 35Ti point and shoot film cameras with me. Each is small, lightweight, and takes great photos.

Pro Tips for a Better Tour du Mont Blanc Experience

Complete the TMB Counterclockwise. This is the more popular direction for a reason. You will be facing many of the most incredible views as you hike, and there are tons of descents that I would not have wanted to ascend. It also means you hike in the same direction as many other hikers, so you can keep the trail conversations going.

Bring cash. Many huts only accept cash, so plan ahead. Be sure to bring some Swiss Francs for the Swiss leg of the trip – while many places will accept Euros on the Swiss side, not all do. Also, Switzerland is kinda expensive. Budget accordingly.

Avoid bed bugs. We had been warned of bed bugs along the trail and were lucky to have not encountered any. Alpine huts have started new efforts to minimize their spread, but make sure you are watching for them too! Do a quick check of your bed when you arrive at huts and inspect your bag daily. No need to panic–just be mindful.

Bring a good map or download one. The trail is very well marked but there are also many points with multiple options. Make sure you have a map so you know which way to go when the trail splits and so you can make choices around trail variants.

Do not underestimate the weather. We got really lucky on the TMB. We experienced very little bad weather other than on our final day. However, we still came prepared with rain gear and crampons just in case.

Remember to train. Life got a little bit busy leading up to the TMB, and we didn't train as much as we should have. The first couple of days on the trail were tough and would have been far more enjoyable had we done a bit more preparation. Day hikes with your pack are a great way to train if you have access to the outdoors in your everyday life. If that's not an option, taking your pack out for a big walk around the city and up some stairs is a great start to prepping for the weight on your back.

Start early each day. Rain and thunderstorms typically come in the afternoon, and you don't want to be stuck on the trail when they do. It can also get really hot around midday, so you'll be thankful you had a few hours in cooler, shadier conditions.